Another striking aspect, one which was to anticipate
trends, was the extensive use of local seasonal
produce, for reasons of freshness, consistency,
interest and that element of character which the
French revere as terroir. The network of suppliers
that Andrew has nurtured over a decade reflects not
merely a profound appreciation for food, and its place
in the scheme of things, but his own roots on the
North York Moors. While some restaurants are happy
to fly in ever more exotic foodstuffs from long-haul
destinations to please novelty-hungry customers,
he and his chefs are more inclined to head for the
hedgerows to pick baby nettles, or the woods to
harvest wild garlic. To a farmer’s son, sustainability
comes as a natural concept.
